THE MOUNT MURUD ODYSSEY
Mount Murud rises majestically from the highlands of Borneo as the highest mountain in Sarawak at 7,954 feet (2,424m).
Straddling near the boundaries of Sarawak and Kalimantan, the imposing mountain has attracted many to discover its secrets. Two attempts were made to reach its summit in 1914 and 1920 by J. C. Moulton, the then Sarawak Museum curator. Both times he failed citing the insufficient food and native porters, and reports of a nearby Dayak invasion.
The First Successful Mount Murud Expedition
In October 1922, his successor who was also a Swedish zoologist Eric Mjöherg managed to conquer the mountain after much travail and hardship. The abundance of plants and animal species filled the zoologist and naturalist’s soul to the brim that he spent six days on the mountain’s summit and wrote glowing accounts of his experience in his book Forest Life and Adventures in the Malay Archipelago (1988).
Since then, a number of nature lovers have made the climb up Mount Murud. A strenuous climb it might be but there is never a dull moment when you take the first step to ascend it. Bear in mind that Eric Mjöherg had it worst, having to hack at the then-unexplored path all the way up to the mountain. Now the path is well-worn and you have the privilege of walking through unbroken primary and old secondary forests.
Perhaps like the nature-loving Mjöherg who wrote the following in his book, you, too will be enthralled with the beauty that is Mount Murud.
"The whole of the vast forest was, as it were, illuminated by the newly opened orchids, which produced such a glory of colour that we could not turn our eyes away from all their beauty. Some of the trees were actually turned into pale yellow or mauve under their covering veil of orchids. From the boughs there hung in literal garlands the yard-long clusters of the flowering Coelogyne, and even the ground, which at other times is usually dull and bare, was now gay with the delicate plant-like orchids of the Liparis variety up to the Spathoglottis- and Vanda-like types that grow in bushes almost up to a man’s head."
Serving a Greater Purpose
Starting from 1985, the mountain served a sacred purpose. It was chosen by God as the platform for his church to be built. It was a monumental and seemingly impossible task, humanly speaking. So God graciously provided a series of astounding miracles and signs and wonders as a confirmation of His calling to build the church on Mount Murud. The miracles happened circa 1984 to 1986 and are detailed in the Testimonies section.
God spoke and His people went in obedience. In the late 80s to 1990, God’s vision was fulfilled. No other mountain in Malaysia has a large church that can house 1,500 people in one go. That plateau is aptly called Church Camp.
Since 1990, thousands of pilgrims from the Borneo Evangelical Church (Sidang Injil Borneo) and other Borneo churches make their way annually to Church Camp (6000ft/2,135m) for their retreat.
Now, once every two years, thousands from all over the world join the ascent to Church Camp to seek the face of God. This is the International Revival Meeting.
The People
The Lun Bawang tribe from Ba Kelalan and Kelabit tribe from Bario live at the foot of Mount Murud. During the British colonial times, the Lun Bawangs were called Murut because they lived around the Mount Murud area along Sungai Bur for more than 100 years ago. They are skilled hunters, fishers and rattan product weavers. They also cultivate the delicious and fragrant Adan rice and rear animals.
In the days before there was any ruling government, killing their enemies and headhunting was a big part of their lifestyle. Gripped with fear, the ones who lived along Sungai Bur ran for their lives and moved to Ba Kelalan. Over time, the number of Murut (Lun Bawang) people who lived in Ba Kelalan grew to be more than those who lived at Sungai Bur.
The living conditions were unhygienic and a disease struck the Sungai Bur residents. Those stricken by the disease had to lie down on banana leaves. As many as 2 to 3 persons per household died during that time because of the disease. The ones who survived ran to Ba Kelalan to escape the disease. Unable to return to Sungai Bur, they decided to stay put and settle down at Ba Kelalan.
In this present day, Ba Kelalan comprises of thirteen villages with 1,200 people. Buduk Nur is the biggest village, with more than 300 people. The next biggest village is Long Langai, which is about 2 kilometers away, with over 100 residents.
The Rivers of Mount Murud
These are the rivers that flow from the mountain to the valley below at Sungai Bur. From Sungai Bur it flows downwards to Sungai Kelalan, Ba Kelalan.
Sungai Bur
Sungai Malap
Sungai Lepak
Sungai Milad
Sungai Telatang
Sungai Rebata
Sungai Masia
Sungai Mekarang
Sungai Teraning
And the following are the rivers that flow from Mount Murud to the Kelabit area:
Sungai Dapur
Sungai Rusu
Sungai Balaban
Sungai Repun
Climbing Mount Murud
Your journey will begin with a 4WD ride from Lawas or Ba Kelalan towards the Lepo Bunga shelter (1300m). The journey will take you 4-5 hours from Lawas and 2-3 hours from Ba Kelalan, depending on weather and road conditions.
You will be greeted again and again by breathtaking views of postcard picture-pretty gentle green pastures and paddy fields peppered with rustic wooden houses, languid water buffaloes and hardworking farmers. The journey may get dusty, so a handkerchief will be handy to cover your nose if you are travelling in an open-top vehicle.
The trekking begins at Lepo Bunga and the ascent to Church Camp (2,135m), also dubbed the Holy Mountain will take you 4-6 hours. You will notice the change in trees and vegetation the higher you go. The lowland dipterocarp forest with its gigantic tress gives way to the lower canopied montane forest. Trek upon jagged paths splashed with wild gingers and framed by exotic orchid plants and bamboo canopy. Clamber upon gentle slopes painted with colourful fungi.
Nothing clears your mind like a hike in the tranquil forest surrounded by all that fresh air, greenery and the sweet presence of God. Many have testified their hearts being touched by the Holy Spirit as they climb. The things in life slowly fall into perspective. Peace cascades your soul and you know that you have encountered God and the best is yet to come.
As you walk on, you will encounter a plank walkway that covers almost three quarters of the trail leading to Church Camp. It was built by the locals to make the pilgrimage a pleasant walk. Unfortunately over the years, the plank walk now lies broken and unusable. The broken plank-walk, exposed roots, deep ruts, steep drops and slippery and muddy ground make the journey tougher. You need to be reasonably fit to complete the journey. And this being a rainforest, sudden rainfalls can occur at any time. So it’s best to have a raincoat or poncho ready, and to ensure your belongings are well-protected from rain. Oh, and don’t forget to bring a pair of leech socks to protect your legs from those creepy crawlies.
Once you see a huge cluster of wooden shelters, you’ll know that you have made it to Church Camp. Congratulations!